This is the third and final leg of our Europe trip visiting Heidleburg, Southern Italy/Sicily and Malta.
Our first leg to Heidelberg, Germany can be found here.Our second leg to Southern Italy/Sicily can be found here.
We arrived in beautiful Malta just on midnight, so upon arriving in Mgarr, the only thing to do was sleep. The next morning, good friend Frans arrived to take us back to the airport to collect our rental car. We wasted no time in making good use of our time, and headed straight for Hagar Qim Temples, not so far from the airport.
Along the way, we stop to appreciate the lookout over the little harbour of Zurrieq.
This little village, is where you can catch a boat to see the Blue Grotto.
The tiny island of Filfla just off the coast.
We were all so much more relaxed as we knew that Malta would be so much less travelling and a more laid back experience for us.
We enter the temple park and take a look around.
These things have been dated at around 3500BC.
Making them well over 5000 years old.
Thankfully, they are now protected from erosion with large vinyl roofing.
Then we made our way down to the second temple.
One of Malta’s thirteen watch towers, in the distance.
A fair walk, but well worth the effort.
This second temple, even more interesting than the first.
When is that iPad going to run out of battery?
It makes us wonder, how the hell these ancient people moved those huge rocks in to place to form some sort of meeting place.
They even went to the trouble of reinforcing the doorway.
Leaving the temples, we make another stop at the Mdina Glass Factory.
Beautiful Maltese, hand blown glass available in so many colours and designs.
Visitors are encouraged to visit the work area to see how it’s done.
Amazing to see these pieces of art come to life.
He’s done this before.
These pieces ready for the shelves.
We found a few lovely examples to take home, in one piece hopefully.
We returned to our unit before heading for a short 5 minute drive to Gnejna for a cooling and relaxing swim in the Mediterranean Sea. That evening, we were heading to one of the fine restaurants nearby to celebrate Anna’s birthday, and for our big secret to finally be exposed.
Here’s a video of how the big surprise went down.
Needless to say, Anna and Gary were thrilled to see the girls at dinner and so far away from home. We all had a fantastic first dinner in Malta and even the restaurant was in on the secret, purposely seating us where the kids could creep up behind.
Another surprise was that we had also planned a boat trip around Malta for all of us to enjoy together.
We managed to grab a great table for us all to sit at.
Sliema harbour looked beautiful in the sunshine.
Daniel and Allanah enjoying the scenery.
A great way to see Malta’s entire coastline in a day.
Lookout, here comes the camera. Must be a mother daughter thing.
While Mikaela enjoys the sunshine beside her Mum.
Heading out of Valletta Harbour.
So much history on this beautiful little island.
Invaded and plundered so many times.
A World War II shelter still guards entry in to the harbour.
This was a great tour to do, which takes you all round the island with a stop in Comino for a swim in the crystal clear waters of the Blue Lagoon. Also with lunch included.
Another of those watch towers.
Sheer cliffs also make up part of Malta's coastline.
A boat taking visitors in to the Blue Grotto.
Passing Zurrieq with it's little tourist boats.
Passing the temples we saw on our first day.
We found out later in our stay that people fish off these cliffs.
Another tower looking over Gnejna Bay
Lovely little Gnejna.
Passing Popeye Village, left as a gift to Malta after the movie was filmed.
The Red Tower. of St Agatha.
Finally, we cruise in to Blue Lagoon with Comino's only tower in the background.
We'll take a walk to it before our swim.
Comino seems to be Malta's playground.
Unfortunately it was overcast, so the water wasn't looking at it's best.
So we took a walk around Comino and come across this now abandoned hotel.
And then on to the tower. Probably one of the best examples in Malta.
Carrying on we see another lovely bay on Comino.
Who said there's no wildlife in Malta.
We find another beautiful bay on Comino's southern side, where a few boats had anchored.
Photo time.
Mikaela, really looked at peace in this shot. Her mind was a thousand miles away.
Candid shots are the best.
I reckon Daniel loved Malta. He's done lots of travel, but never to Malta.
After a refreshing swim in the lagoon, it was time for lunch and to head back.
Finally the sun came out, showing the beautiful colour of the water.
Mikaela will probably kill me for this. There's not much of her, but she's good on the tooth.
Hmm, keep, delete, delete, delete, keep keep, keep.
The next day, it was time to visit the perfect walled village of Mdina and Rabat.
Yet more beautiful , old homes, proudly kept.
Lovely, simple decorations yet so perfect.
Walking through the main gate of Mdina.
Those walls were meant to last.
Traditional Maltese horse drawn carriages are popular here.
It just so happened that the museum had free entry on this day.
These solid silver statues of the apostles had to be purchased by the Maltese people, three times. The initial time to have them made, then two other times to Napoleon, who threatened to steal them and forced the Maltese to pay him their weight in gold so that he would leave them to their rightful owners.
Malta, is predominately Catholic, and the money spent on the church was incredible, seeing as though Malta was so poor for so long.
This guide was fantastic and very informative.
Many items were donated to the church museum from local families.
This chapel within the museum was decorated so ornately.
So much artwork and perfect woodwork.
See how detailed the timber inlay is on this bench. A dying trade I'm sure.
Artwork collections throughout the museum.
Then, the guide takes us below ground to more astounding artefacts.
Then these carvings created by Maltese artist Anton Agius, who just happens to be an uncle of our friend Therese.
Some Latin carved in this stone.
Coming back in to daylight, we take a walk around the old city.
There just happened to be a wedding taking place in the church nearby.
And wow.
Eventually we find a cafe that we wanted Anna and Gary to see. Fontanella's.
The view up there is breathtaking.
We could even see all the way to the famous Mosta Dome.
Photo time.
Views all round.
This pic gives you an idea of how thick the citadel walls are.
Beautiful narrow alleyways all through the city.
This lovely home caught our eye with it's lovely shutters.
And yet another beautiful church.
Those paintings.
These ceramic street signs were in character with the old city as well.
Replacing old ones such as this.
The girls find their knight in shining armour.
More traditional balconys.
The Maltese flag flying proudly.
And we find a Mdina glass store as well.
Another glass purchase.
That evening, we were invited for dinner to Frans and Lina's farm, where they often have friends and family over for get togethers. Looks like chicken and veg in the wood fired oven today, and yes it was delicious.
We were eager to visit these guys with our friends. It was a truly Maltese experience that you just can't get in tourist groups.
Frans firing up the oven.
They recently added an annex to provide more prep room for Lina, out of the sun.
Ok, chicken's on, time to tour the farm.
Just next door, is his brothers farm and animals.
His brother has a wood fired oven as well.
Chris and Gary seemed to hit it off.
The ducks seem to follow us around everywhere.
Looking back at Frans and Lina's.
Frans is proud of his farm and his fruit trees.
Character.
No tv's or electronics. Just friendly chatter among friends.
Time to check the chicken bake.
Not ready yet.
Frans then produces some freshly roasted almonds.
Chicken goes back in for browning.
And more chatter.
Some of last seasons onions out to dry.
Their gorgeous boy, Toto.
Slicing that perfect Maltese wood fired bread.
And the chicken bake is ready.
Oh God yes. The flavour !
Not the last supper.
The next day, we had planned a day out with good friend Christina.
She planned a personal tour of the three cities across from Valletta.
So rich in history, as is the rest of Malta.
The three cities were occupied by the Knights of St John, in defence of Malta.
A little script,explaining some of the history.
The local bocce pitch.
These were shelters once used in the war, but now bricked off.
More beautiful masonry work.
Looking through the wall to the harbour.
The girls with Christine at centre.
More of those alleyways, so typical in Malta.
Quite a few Maltese homes are decorated with statues such as this.
Christine explains that these holes in the walls were caused by German machine gun fire during the war.
Didn't do much to solid rock walls.
Wrong place, wrong time Gaz.
Yet another beautiful church. One of 365 churches and chapels throughout Malta and Gozo. That's one for each day of the year!
These lovely old timber boats can take you from one side of the harbour to the other.
Standing outside the maritime museum.
Another view of the harbour.
A large cruise ship bringing in much valued tourist dollars in to the harbour. Unfortunately the tourists only get enough time to see Valletta then leave, claiming they've been to Malta, when there's so much more to see.
Those arches are where the canons go off at mid day.
Valletta looks so biblical, with it's limestone buildings.
Time for lunch in the shade and in a a quiet spot.
A traditional Maltese boat, called a Luzzu.
The eyes painted at the front, originated in Phoenician times to ward off danger.
Photo time.
This lookout post, a reminder for the people of Malta, to always remain vigilant.
The eye, to keep watch.
The Crane for patience.
The ear, to listen out.
And inside to take touristy photos.
A Luzzu waits anchored in the water below.
We noticed that although the homes of Malta are very old, they're very well kept.
Time to head back after a full day's walking.
The next day saw Anna and Gary spend a day on the water with their girls, so we took the chance to have a day out with our Sydney friends, Michael and Rita, who just happened to be in Malta too. They were also staying in Mgarr, so we met for breakfast and head off for a drive around the area. Here we stop in Bingemma near the chapel.
In the valley below, we could see tombs cut in to the cliff walls, just the same as the ones in Sicily.
We can also see Mgarr clearly, with it's church standing proudly in the village.
And surrounding fields.
On our way to see the Merhla Cliffs, we see these hunter's dens. Hunting and shooting in Malta was once unpoliced but thank God, times have changed.
A reminder of how dry this little island is.
We arrive at the cliffs and the view is breathtaking from up high. Also, the water is so dark and deep.
Me taking a photo of Michael taking a photo of Rita and Cathy.
Then we notice this line crossing the cliff face.
To our surprise, there was a fella fishing high on top the cliff.
Michael strikes up conversation with him.
I was just hoping he didn't get a dizzy spell and fall to his death.
Absolute madness, in my opinion. One small slip and he's gone.
Here he begins pulling in his long line, sticking his hooks on the sponge around the rim of the bucket as he goes.
Another fisherman does the same in the distance.
It was a beautiful place to take in the views though.
Then we notice this naturally formed pool, down below.
Formed so perfectly, I can't tell you how much I would have loved to just lay in it.
As we drove, the views just kept coming.
Here, we look out over the Gozo Ferry terminal.
We then visit the Red Tower, that we saw from the distance on our cruise around Malta.
Close up on one of one of it's canons.
Then we cross over to the Coral Lagoon on the Northern most tip of the East side of Malta.
This beautiful lagoon is naturally formed and looked so perfect to swim in.
Crystal clear.
This bloke was in there snorkelling and had it all to himself. I was jealous.
While the rest of us looked on.
Michael and Rita took us to a cafe nearby, again with views to kill for and ending our day with them perfectly.
Wow.
Back together, the next morning we planned to meet Chris, Rita, Frans and Lina in the lovely island of Gozo. A short ferry trip joins Malta with Gozo, but there is talk of building a tunnel under the channel in the future.
Another busy day ahead for us all, but so much fun.
Passing Comino.
Approaching Mgarr Harbour, Gozo.
While the second ferry begins it's trip in the opposite direction.
Just like Malta, only smaller.
Here, we head straight for the Cittadella in Vittoria.
Another perfect walled city, steeped in history.
Even before you enter, there's so much to see.
The engineering and workmanship here is beyond belief.
The first thing you see when entering the Citadel, is the church of course.
And more beautiful architecture as you look around the plaza.
And those alley ways. The stories they could tell.
Off with his head!
There's always one, isn't there.
We then make our way to the top of the walls.
More spectacular views to be had.
Chris, being an Englishman, knows Gozo quite well, having a holiday unit here, which he and Rita use quite frequently.
Great photo opportunity. Lina and Frans hadn't arrived as yet.
Spot the pussy.
We then drove on to see the church of Ta Pinu, A sanctuary for those who are ill and seek help through prayer.
This is the statue of the lady who apparently heard the voice of The Blessed Virgin in the old chapel which still stands today.
Rita and Cathy having a good old gas bag.
Meanwhile, inside the church, the back rooms are filled with memorabilia from those who have asked for divine help.
Hmmm not sure about the casts.
Obviously, some bloke was cured of compulsive masturbation by having his hand removed.
The photo of the little boy, hit close to home, as he was from Australia and had written just a couple of weeks prior.
This is Cathy and I standing in front of it in 2015.
Even solid rock can't withstand the power of the sea.
We then walk across to Dwejra and it's Inland Sea.
Such a great little spot for swimming and snorkelling.
And surrounded by colourful boat sheds.
Then moving on, to this little oddity. By now, Lina and Frans had joined us for the remainder of the day.
The story goes that Ninu was digging a well and stumbled upon a hidden cave beneath his home.
And what a cave.
Moving on, we drive on to a lookout over Ramla Bay, famous for it's red sandy beach.
Another great scene.
I'm not real comfortable with this shooter's shelter over the beach though.
Imagine having a sun bake on the sand, then a gun goes off over head.
I'm not sure what Anna was plotting here.
A short walk over, we get to see Mixta Cave, also looking over Ramla Bay.
The wind was absolutely howling through the entrance, but wow, what a view.
And great photo opportunity.
A great spot to escape the heat of the day, as it was shady and high up so there was often a breeze blowing through it.
And also evidence of a fire place for those cooler days.
We then made our way to visit the Bay of Dahlet. We just had to stop for a pic of this odd farm machine. They're quite common in Malta and very versatile. You can hook up a trailer such as this, or take the trailer off and hoe the farm with it. This one looks quite new.
This little known bay is perfect for a quiet swim away from crowds.
And still holds on to it's identity, with it's boat sheds.
These little tubs are used to paddle out to larger boats, usually kept moored in the bay.
All he needs now is water.
And the local boat ramp.
Before leaving Australia for our holiday, my father told me of a place near Wardija Ridge, north of Mgarr where our forefathers once lived in caves. We just had to see it for ourselves.
Not so much caves as shelters cut into the cliff face.
During the war, people from surrounding areas joined them for protection from the bombing raids.
Then this gateway took us to another area of caves that looked more cared for.
This one perfect for storing pumpkins in the cool dry shade.
And they were huge.
And so many.
They could certainly see what was going on from up here.
I have no idea which of these caves belonged to my family, but it was amazing to see in to my past like this.
After such an interesting morning, we made our way to Marsaxlokk Bay to meet Gary and Anna's girls for lunch, before taking them to the airport, as it was time for them to head home.
A major fishing village with lots of colourful boats, seafood restaurants and markets.
A long line with all it's hooks lined up along the rim of the container.
Looking across to the village from the other side of the harbour.
Eventually, the girls and Daniel arrive and we walk the markets together.
They didn't get past the first stall, selling Kannoli.
How can you blame them?
I couldn't get enough of these beautiful Maltese boats.
Just chatting the day away.
Another great view to the village.
We all enjoyed a fresh seafood lunch together before their flight home.
On our way home, we stopped by Mosta to visit the famous Mosta Dome and for Gary and I to get a hair cut.
This cathedral, has the third largest unsupported dome roof in the world and survived an attempted bombing from a German war plane in the Second World War.
Yet more beautiful European sculpture.
First things first, climb the stairs to the roof.
This church was a sight, I can tell you.
Gary sporting his new hair cut.
Stunning.
The domed roof from inside, looking up.
This patched up area is where the German bomb had fallen through the church ceiling, only to bounce off the wall and down to the floor without going off. All with a church full of people, praying their hearts out. They survived but needed a change of underwear me thinks.
One of it's bell towers.
Still on the church roof, looking over the village of Mosta.
We then enter the church at ground level.
Simply beautiful.
Looking up from the ground.
Once again, where the bomb dropped through.
Bouncing off the wall here, above Jesus head.
A replica of the offending bomb and a black and white photo of the damage it made.
Then it was time to visit the war shelter below the church. More stairs.
It's like an underground village under here.
Back on ground level in all her beauty, basking in the Mediterranean blue sky.
With our holiday quickly coming to an end, we spend the next day exploring Malta's capital, Valletta.
The fountain at the city's entrance, has recently been cleaned up and restored to it's former glory.
Valletta's main entrance.
And again, it has it's own huge walls surrounding it.
With cannons placed along them.
This cannon could easily take out the fountain.
Cars in the city are very limited to service vehicles and residents.
First port of call was St John's Cathedral. An incredible sight to see, rich in history and architecture.
Words can not describe this place.
This huge cathedral has eight chapels within it. Four on each side.
Impossible to imagine it's cost to build today.
Obviously cared for continuously with valuable tourist dollars.
Even the marble statues get the treatment.
The cross of St John is found everywhere in Malta.
One of the eight chapel's altars.
So many tomb stones lay as part of the floor inside the cathedral.
I've never seen anything like this place.
Artwork commissioned to talented artists of the era.
Then we spot a viewing platform, accessible to visitors.
More bloody stairs !
Holy cow, what a view, and all the tourists were down stairs.
See the size of this place.
You can count the four chapels on each side of the cathedral.
And finally the main alter was like no other I've seen before.
Leaving the cathedral, we make our way to the saluting battery, for the midday, cannon.
Nice view of one of the three cities we visited with Christina, from here.
Preparing the midday cannon.
And off it blasts.
We then climb even more stairs to the gardens overlooking the cannons.
A couple more touristy pics.
A huge ship delivers more tourists to Malta, well, Valletta more specifically.
This small fountain in the garden, helped cool things off a little.
Hi girls.
Making our way back out the gate, we head toward another smaller church.
This was the Our Lady of Victories church. Anna was interested as it shared the same name as her old parish in Horsley Park, Sydney.
Much simpler but just as beautiful.
With it's own unique artwork.
Across from the church, this ministerial building, just as grand.
Cathy loves those stairs.
Our visit to Valletta, was a whole day affair, travelling to and from the city by bus, which was an experience in itself. Today was a new day and it was time to visit The Blue Grotto.
Formerly a tiny fishing village, has now turned it's hand to tourism and doing very well I might add.
Anna and Gary climb into the boat. We've been before and give it a miss this time.
And off they go.
A beautiful little harbour and great for swimming, off to the end, out of the way of the boats.
Another relic from the war, overlooking the harbour.
More small boats lined up on the ramp.
And here come Anna and Gary.
And, done.
Filfla island not too far off shore.
Another boat load of tourists pass by on their way to the Grotto.
On our way back to Mgarr, we stop to take in yet more views.
Then we spot a farmer turning his plot over.
And his old Land Rover still ticking over reliably.
And we spot beautiful Mgarr in the distance.
Gary shows me his endless appreciation.
This tiny Toyota, served us well in Malta, parked outside the unit we rented. I think our friends enjoyed staying in a untouristy village in Malta. We all enjoyed Malta as it should be and as the Maltese live it daily.
We see you Gazza.
Our second last day in Malta, saw us visit Rabat, the old capital and Mum's home village.
On the way in, we take an opportunity to photograph Mdina from the road below.
After finding parking, we head straight for Crystal Palace (Ta Serkin), well known for the best pastizzi in Malta. Personally I haven't had a bad pastizzi ever,in Malta, ever!
I must say, I've never seen a line up for this humble pastry anywhere else.
Spot the bloody tourists. 😏
Where the magic happens.
My mouth is watering, I promise you.
"One for me and six for my husband please" 😆
"Just one to share with my husband please"
After a feed of world conquering pastizzi, we take a walk around Rabat.
St Paul's Church in Rabat.
A quick pic or two before meeting up with cousin George.
George meets us and takes us to visit an artist friend of his.
His workshop is in his garage but his work is beautiful. It's another great experience for us to see someone like this, responsible for various art around Malta.
His workshop.
Tools of his trade.
He then explains that George modelled for one of his creations. A picture of George used, on the right.
And more different angles.
We then left George temporarily, to visit the catacombs.
This is a must see, when visiting Malta.
Yes, that's a real skeleton buried with it's belongings.
More artefacts found on the site.
Some interesting reading.
And down we go to the first of many tomb areas. MORE STAIRS.
It was quite eerie down there but nice and cool. No, this isn't a pizza oven. in fact it's a row of tombs, probably for a family burial.
This site is huge and likened to a rabbit warren.
Another scary sight.
We found later that people would sit around these after a burial, and have an after burial meal in memory of their loved ones. The leftovers would then be simply pushed off the side.
More skeletons.
We then take a rest from the underground, and meet up with George and his brother. Here they take us to the bakery where his brother once worked.
You cant beat the flavour a wood fired oven produces.
This huge mixer, used to create the dough.
Th owner still working so hard.
Note the bread paddles hanging above.
Ok, time to go back underground and see St Paul's Grotto and war shelters.
MORE BLOODY STAIRS
More historical art, even underground.
I just included this shot because I can, alright?
And this one too.
The entrance to the grotto.
It is said that St Paul was held here while his ship was being repaired, on the way to be beheaded in Rome, and continued to preach while held captive.
This chapel, directly above the Grotto and beside the church.
By now, Gary knew enough about churches and the catholic religion, that he had a go at preaching.
Looks like tough love to me, or is he demanding donations?
Now it was time to see the war shelters.
There were many under here and seemed to be well organised.
Some were numbered. We claimed this one.
Some were tiled as well.
We then ventured upstairs to the museum.
Jam packed with religious art and artefacts.
By now you're wondering, so many artistic treasures in such a tiny nation.
The Grand Master, also held the wealth. In the name of God of course.
His bath on one side of the wall.
His bed on the other side.
And chest perched up high in the wall.
Funeral artefacts.
Not something you'd expect to see in a religious building.
And finally, more work by Anton Agius.
We had finally reached the last day of our holiday and time to head back home, but not before driving up above Gnejna Bay to photograph it from above.
With it's own boat sheds. One of which my Dad built with his mate.
Close up of the beach and car park.
The view over Ghajn Tuffieha to the North.
And of course it's own watch tower.
It was finally time to bid a very sad farewell to these beautiful people, who are not just my relations but great friends we all became fond of. Till our next visit, lots of love to you all.
