This is the second post of three, covering a fantastic holiday in Europe which took us in the Rhine River Valley-Germany, firstly, then on to Malta for three weeks, with a five day tour around Sicily in the second week of our Malta stay.
You can view our Germany post HERE
You can view our Malta post HERE
You can view our Germany post HERE
You can view our Malta post HERE
Sicily was not unlike Malta with similar culture, food, religious beliefs and fantastic history and architecture. We toured Sicily, hiring a car from the airport, after flying in from Malta, and staying in various B&B's around this fantastic island of Italy. Our good friend Myuki had flown in from Japan to Malta the day before we flew out to Sicily early the next morning, to join us on the five day drive. It was a lot of fun for all of us , as none of us had visited before and we enjoyed each others company, not to mention the financial benefits of splitting the cost of car hire and accommodation three ways. Win win all round.
Day 1: Map
We had an early flight to Catania which was beneficial, as it gave us a full first day in Sicily and we wasted no time.
This interesting bit of information, printed on the plane's engine, however I have read elsewhere it was like 4000 BC. Whats a 1000 years between friends right?
Our first stop was the Necropolis of Pantalica, a UNESCO site.
It is a 500 meter walk down in to a valley then the option to walk a further 500 meters down to a fresh water stream. We did both of course.
The Pentalica is a collection of tombs cut out in rock on the sides of the valley. There is a small town in Malta called Bingemma with identical tombs but on a much smaller scale.
As you can see there were hundreds of them.
They date back to the 13th century.
Another 500 meter walk deeper in to the valley, we reach bottom and this stunning mountain stream.
One word, stunning.
It was a very warm day so I just had to take my shoes off and get in the water.
Then I spied this small freshwater crab.
Quick pic for Instagram.
A face only a mother can love.
Did I mention it was a beautiful spot?
This is the track that takes you in to the valley. It's a harder climb back up in the heat but worth the effort.
These bright green lizards were all over the rocks.
This is the little Peugeot hatch that took us around Sicily. Brand new turbo diesel that was very economical.
Myuki orders a Fettuccine in a mushroom sauce which was the house specialty and the ravioli for Cath and I. So simple but so delicious with only the best quality home made ingredients.
Rounding an uphill climb this beautiful old city of Ragusa comes in to sight.
So many beautiful old homes huddled together.
After parking the car, we buy a map from the info desk and take a self guided tour through the old city. This was a great experience being our first day in Sicily.
The buildings are gorgeous.
The stories these old steps could tell.
Here we actually took a wrong turn up a steep hill but wow, what a view!
No room for large gardens but how nice is this?
These narrow streets, built in horse and cart days, are so characteristic of many old towns we saw right through Sicily and Malta.
The girls charge ahead while I take a pic then run to catch up.
Then this magnificent cathedral.
At the far end of the city is this lovely garden.
I loved the old pots.
The staircase, a reminder of the garden's past.
We finally arrive in Piazza Armerina late afternoon, where we spend our first night in Sicily.
This is the front door to the B&B which is a beautifully renovated old terrace. The adjoining door is a second place the owners are renovating, which used to be a stable where the original owners kept their donkeys!
So tasteful and modern. The staircase to the right leads down to the front door, while the stairs at the rear lead up to the kitchen. A modern bathroom is behind the bedroom.
A small desk sits nicely in the corner.
A small but fully equipped kitchen at the top.
The original wood fired oven on the left that is still functional.
Once again out the front. You can appreciate that parking is a problem in places such as this but we got by ..... just.
So once we unpacked, we set off for a walk around town and to find a place for dinner, recommended by our hosts. I'm not sure what these holes in the walls of this building are for, however they made great roosts for the pigeons.
Again, so much character.
This store sold all things wine.
Eventually, we find our man.
We chose to eat outside for that authentic experience.
Looking up from our table.
A memorable and tasty meal. The swordfish for me, Italian sausage for Myuki and stuffed calamari for Cath.
The old buildings jut keep coming, even if they do have plants growing out of them. Adds to the character don't you think?
On our walk back to the B&B, I capture the sunset. A perfect end to our first day.
Day2: Map
Day two started with a breakfast provided in the kitchen of our B&B before heading off. I was more confident on the road after getting the feel for it the previous day. Soon after reaching the southern coast we spot this castle right on the beach.
A reasonable beach but it's hard to please people like us that come from a place with the best beaches in the world. Too hard to compete.
Standing in the same spot looking west.
A little further down the road, we stopped for a coffee. This was the view from the balcony.
By late morning, we reached the Valley of the Temples. This was to be one of the highlights of our Sicily trip.
Even from a distance, these ruins looked incredible.
These Greek structures are breathtaking and dated at 500BC.
We eventually drive up to the park and got up close to them.
They were large and what an effort to erect such huge lumps of rock to build them.
We spent a couple of hours here and walked all the way through the series of temples. The next one we could see in the distance was most complete and awesome to see.
This wall is partly naturally formed and part man built, and ran along the edge of the cliff that the temples were.
I imagine that they had a good view of the invading forces from up here.
Here we approach the main attraction in my opinion.
You find yourself standing there with your mouth wide open in awe.
This statue is not as old as it looks, but was created to compliment the temple and for the benefit of tourists.
As you can see, Cathy benefited from it! Geeze, take her anywhere twice. The second time to apologize. Hang on, is that statue smiling?
Another angle.
These random herd of long horned goats lived just next door.
A little further on we come across this bathing area.
Then this above ground burial area which also extended underground.
This fossilized shell was one of many I saw in the limestone rock. We also saw some in Malta.
These vicious Sicilian guard dogs hard at work. Oh hang on it's after 12:00 so its afternoon nap time.
Yet another temple. Probably the one in least good condition.
I tried to capture the size of these collapsed pillar segments but again pictures don't do it justice. You'll just have to trust me when I tell you they're bloody huge.
And finally these large statues laying down near yet another temple. There were four in total but this one was in the best condition.
Saying good bye to and extended visit to the temples, we then head for the Scala Dei Turchi.
It's name means "Stair of the Turks" and is famous for its unusual white colour.
Note all the tourists scaling it's wall.
At the beach I pictured the price list for umbrellas and sunbeds. Multiply by 1.5 and you get Australian dollars, roughly.
Even the small change rooms have character.
The view down the beach which was quite rocky by the way.
We arrive at tonight's B&B mid afternoon in Salinunte.
Actually it was more like a pension with several rooms, each with their own bathroom and air conditioned, thankfully.
Another side view.
The girls on the balcony of our room.
As usual we set off for a walk about town. These three wheelers were everywhere in Sicily. They looked strange to us at first but very practical in the tight streets and lanes.
Salinunte is situated on the water and has a lovely harbour.
Looking toward the break wall.
It was quite windy so the water was a little rough.
Ok gelato time!
So much choice. Sicilian gelato is soooo nice. I fell in love with the Pistachio with nuts in it.
Selinunte's fishing fleet. Sicily is known for it's excellent sea food.
A smaller boat comes back from a day out. Love the life style. No rush to do anything and no stress.
Typically Mediterranean.
That evening we went in search of great seafood that Sicily is famous for. We walked about a bit and finally went back down to the marina where we noticed some chairs and tables set up behind locked gates, however there were locals seated having a glass of wine and a bite to eat. I asked a gentleman who'd just come out of the area if we were able to have dinner there and he not only said yes but also arranged with the owner to let us in. Well let me tell you this was great because once again we were the only outsiders there and not only was the food excellent but the atmosphere was unbeatable.
The view from our table.
You'd pay big money back home for this. The atmosphere was so peaceful. we could have just sat there sipping a glass a wine or three for hours and simply watch the sun go down. For us, this is what holidays are all about.
Day 3: Map
Another great stay in a B&B with a great patisserie style breakfast to boot.
Leaving Salinunte we make our way to see Salemi and its Norman castle.
Not all castles are the same. This one definitely gives an indestructible impression.
Across the plaza from the castle is this church that was destroyed in an earthquake.
This is what's left of the alter.
The chapel on the side held out a little better.
On another side of the plaza, sat a cafe where we stopped for a break before carrying on.
These mopeds are so at home in Sicily, with it's narrow streets and lane ways. The only problem is, that they come creeping up beside you in traffic without warning. It took some getting used to but I'm happy to say we didn't hit any. Well not that I'm aware of.
Our next stop was Segesta to see another Greek Temple.
This one claims to be the best preserved example.
We didn't pay to visit as we were all templed out from the previous day, however we did take some pics from a distance.
The adjoining field was worth a photo too.
Eventually we reach the coast and begin to climb the mountain up to Erice. Not quite at the top, is this exceptional view over Trapani.
At the top we reach the medieval walled city of Erice.
Entrance to the city.
Once again, such narrow streets, typical of it's age.
It's own castle.
One of Enrice's churches. Even though it is a rather small place, it has a number of churches. Note the original steps that don't look like they've been touched up in any way, since it was built..
No colourful led light windows surprisingly.
More lovely old streets, typical of older European villages.
Enrice is popular on the tourist route so naturally souvenir shops are abundant, however most of the gifts are locally made, not cheap plastic replicas made overseas. Lovely ceramics here.
And local tapestries.
Time for lunch (we eat often and a lot). This time a cafe in a quiet little corner away from the tourists.
We all shared a couple of arancine as a starter. The tastiest we ever had.
So simple yet so perfectly pleasant.
After lunch we began to make our way back to the car. This area looked particularly worth a picture with the wall on the right showing the rock that it's made of.
Close up of the cobble stone street. They even went through the trouble of laying it in pattern.
A particularly quiet section of the city where you can really capture the true character of the place and simply take it all in.
By the way, the city is still lived in and small cars and bikes use it's tiny streets and lanes. Hard to believe but you have to see it to believe it.
Another of it's beautiful old churches.
Close up of it's bell tower. We never got tired of the many bells we heard going off throughout our trip through all three countries we visited, particularly in Malta.
Close enough ?
Another image of this beautiful place.
We didn't realize at first but passing back under the arch in the opposite direction revealed a neat shrine of the Madonna.
One of the homes had the front entrance open so I snuck this pic in of their outdoor foyer.
We leave Erice and begin making our way to Monreale. About an hour out, we come across this lookout over the marina of Balestrate
In the car park, the locals sell their goods to tourists. This gentleman sells home made jams and conserves, as well as nut bars and the like.
And this fella a variety of wood carvings, on a more industrial scale.
So this is our accomodation for the third night. We were upgraded to the large suite on the top floor.
This was it's name. The owner was very helpful and he also conveniently owned the restaurant down stairs which offered a discount to guests. Perfect!
The view from our balcony.
Across the lane was this magnificent cathedral which offered the opportunity to climb its tower to the roof. It closed within the hour so we quickly unpacked and made our way there.
Note the mosaic covering its walls.
One of the largest and most extravagant we encountered, built 850 years ago, taking 11 years.
Stunning.
So we begin the climb
This landing about halfway up, with windows to let the light in. The passage was very narrow, but the girls didn't seem as much problem as I did, carrying the backpack. Well that's my excuse anyway.
We get to the top and make our way to one of the steeples for the best view over looking the city of Palermo.
Looking down to this beautifully maintained garden behind the cathedral but within the monestry walls.
A bit higher, almost there.
Finally, this great view over the city of Palermo.
And beyond.
Hi Cath ! (or is that high Cath)
We could walk right round for 360' views. A great experience for just 5 Euro.
Looking down to Myuki's bedroom window with the pink curtains. So close.
Inside the cathedral, extravagance. Those organ pipes were huge.
Those walls are covered in gold leaf. And check out the huge oil painting at top.
This fountain, outside in the piazza.
Not sure who this dude is but he looks important and rather photogenic.
Another thing we noticed both in Sicily and Malta, was that almost all the churches had a piazza out front where cafes and restaurants were always evident. We often saw people walk out of church and straight in to the piazza for a chat and a meal.
Also a green grocer who had a deli inside.
For dinner we give the pizzeria downstairs a try.
We were about to sit inside until the lovely young waitress suggested we sit in the lane which suddenly turned in to a seating area for the restaurant. Gotta love Europe!
Nothing says Romance like a Ducati in a Sicilian village over dinner.
One of the moments we will remember for a long time.
The gorgeous young waitress will be hard to forget too. Her accent was scrumptious. (I hope Cath doesn't read this too closely)
Cathy's strawberry desert. Our meals were excellent too.
Day 4: Map
The next morning we had breakfast at this pasticceria, Paid for by the B&B no less.
We made our way down in to Palermo. By this time I was quite confident driving in Sicily and also knew how the parking ticketing system worked. If the park spot is lined in white, then free unlimited parking. If it is outlined in blue, then you find the nearest tobacconist and buy a parking ticket for 1 Euro per hour and display it on the dash. Easy ! Once you know how.
Street stalls such as these popped up anywhere and the fruit was very fresh and high quality.
Even the little three wheelers were put to good use. We saw one that was so heavily laden with produce, that it seemed that it was going to lift up at the front.
We stumbled on these street markets in the back lane ways of Palermo. They went on and on and was one of the highlights of our visit to Sicily as they showcased what Sicily is well known for. Seafood.
So much fresh seafood to choose from and so fresh. From pippies to large sword fish.
And tuna.
Which was cut up right in front of you.
Loads of fresh fruit also. These cherries just 1:50 Euro a kilo. (just over $2 Aus)
Then, my weakness. Olives, cheese and salamis.
A piece of cheese anyone?
This three wheeler was even smaller than any we saw.
Fresh meat also for sale at the market.
Tomatoes, 35c Euro a kilo! And the best you'll ever see.
More seafood. The red colour of these calamari cought my eye.
We finally reach the other end.
Five minutes down the road, this fella sells even more fish, away from the hustle and bustle of the markets.
Parking is a problem in Sicily, but not for bikes so you find hundreds of them everywhere.
These three wheelers were spruced up to carry tourists around the city with ease. Very clever I thought.
Exploring the city further away, its amazes me the amount of art that adourns its streets and plazas.
This intersection had a facade just like this on all four corners.
And each one had a running fountain.
When Cathy had her last birthday, she chose to hold off on a present from me until this trip, as she wanted a leather bag from Sicily. Her wish came true when we found this shop in Palermo. All the bags were hand crafted by a workshop in Florence and no two were identical. Myuki decided she would have one too so after a little bargaining with the father and daughter team, the price went from $165 Euro each to $100 Euro. Result? two happy girls Winner!
Leaving Palermo, we head for Solunto to see ruins of a Greek/Roman settlement.
The view from the car park. All these old cities seem to have been built up high. Handy to spot invaders I guess.
There wasn't much left of these ruins at all but as we looked around it all started to make sense.
Basically, there were rows and rows of small homes with the occasional chapel or meeting place in between.
Old steps still in their place.
Did I mention the spectacular view ?
These pillars are all that remain of a place of worship.
This mosaic floor was in outstanding condition.
This is all that was left of a huge urn about four feet high.
This was about the best example of the architecture still standing.
We then head for the former fishing village of Cefalu
Its main source of income is now tourism.
But still hangs on to its rustic charm.
Cefalu had one of the better beaches.
This was our restaurant of choice. Even the arrow is pointing to it.
Today we finally ordered pizza. Seafood and the other, I forget. They were perfect, needless to say.
Cathy patiently waiting for me to take the pic.
After lunch we find a gelato shop to enjoy yet another Gelato.
Only small cups this time.
Here we arrive at the the final B&B for the trip. This one at Capo D' Orlando.
This one had a very inviting pool in the back which we put to very good use.
And a BBQ area.
Once again we were offered a 15% discount at a certain restaurant recommended by our hosts. Check this view out. You couldn't get any closer to the water without getting wet. And not expensive either.
Ok time for a lovey dovey pic. Thanks Myuki.
And a perfect Sicilian sunset for free.
Day 5: Map
All B&Bs included breakfast and our final one for the trip was no exception. We were given coupons to take to this bar where a fantastic choice of Italian pastries awaited us.
Served by the owner herself.
Sadly this was our last day in Sicily but our flight wasn't due until late evening so we still had the whole day ahead of us. After leaving our accommodation, we took the mountain pass around Mr Etna which also happens to be the most scenic. My only regret was that we didn't do it on a bike because the roads were incredible.
Here we approach the mountain village of Randazzo.
So Cathy needed to find a rest room, so while we were waiting in the car park, I just couldn't resist photographing this gorgeous little town.
So typically Sicilian with there terracotta tiles.
The busy town centre.
Anyone that knows me, also knows that I absolutely love photographing bridges. This one is up there with the best because of it's age and character.
Leaving Randazzo, we continue along the mountain pass and come across many of these deserted farm houses. Here we decide to stop and take a closer look and wonder why the owners decide to simply leave their home. We find that the cows occupy the house for shelter and the house is full of cow poo and flies. Suddenly the romanticism of it all disappears.
I thought this gate needed a photo so here it is.
Quite suddenly, Mount Etna comes in to sight.
There we were, parked up on the edge of a field with no-one around, when this awesome thing appears before us.
As I mentioned, the mountain pass was awesome. This pic is for all my motorcycling friends.
A little further on, we come across these beautiful cattle with bells strapped to their necks.
Much like their cousins in the European Alps, the bells help the farmers locate them in bad weather when visibility is bad.
Eventually we arrive in Taormina with the intention of seeing the Ancient Greek Theatre, however the tourist traffic was ridiculous and decided to give it a miss.But not before taking a couple of pics in the area.
We then carry on to climb Mt Etna and arrive at Crater Silvestri.
Volcanic rock covered the whole area.
The actual crater.
The keener tourists walked the crater and beyond, but not us. The remainder of the trek to the top of Mount Etna, involved a chair lift which was ridiculously expensive so we opted out.
Then the clouds began to roll in and these ones had hail in them.
Descending Mount Etna, we still had a few hours to burn so we spent them at this marina just half an hour from the airport.
These traditional Sicilian fishing boats, not unlike those in Malta.
Ok so one of them didn't quite make it. But the resident duck didn't mind at all.
We spotted this fisherman on the rocks below. Just as well he was wearing safety high vis speedos.
We saw so many of these three wheelers, we started a spotting game. Surprisingly they weren't all the same.
This one was controlled just like a motorcycle.
And one of the smallest ones of all.
Would we go back? Bloody Oath we would!
Looks like an awesome trip. Very informative & interesting.
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