Ireland September 2023

I’ve often read, that for people who have travelled the UK , they voted Ireland as giving them the best experience. I now know why.

This trip was originally planned and paid for in early 2020, to travel in that May, however Covid destroyed that dream until now. The delay gave me the opportunity to rethink our plan and mapping which resulted in a new, better route which ended up being a winner.

This visit to Ireland was a totally different experience for us because of the culture and history, when compared to others in Europe, not to mention the best pubs in the world, hands down.

The map below, shows our general route around Ireland, anticlockwise, from and returning to Dublin. The letters indicate the location of our B and Bs only. In addition to this, we did many day trips to cover as much of the Emerald Isle as we could. We ended up travelling 4200 km with the rental car.

Living in paradise, that is the NSW South Coast, has its downside, that is the amount of time it takes to travel overseas, because of its distance from Sydney Airport. Our travel time from our doorstep to Dublin was a whopping 32 hours with just one stop in Dubai. That afternoon and evening, we slept 11 hours straight, which is why we allow for this in our plans.

Here, we enjoy a complimentary breakfast from our host in Dublin, after a great sleep.

Our first day in Ireland was spent exploring Dublin. The architecture just smacks you in the face.

We chose to use the buses to go into the city, rather than drive and battle for parking.

Our first visit, was to the famous Trinity College.

      

Again the architecture is something else.

We just happened to be there as students were enrolling for the new semester.

We got all excited to get the opportunity to visit the old library and see the Book of Kells, but the library was closed for the removal of all books for preservation and to be replaced with virtual ones. Unfortunate, but necessary for their survival.

   

A bit of arty farty stuff around the grounds.

We grew to love the ivy covered buildings all over Ireland.

Leaving the college, we take a walk through the city.

Ireland's pubs are numerous and very colourful. We visit many as you'll see.

A short walk away is St Patrick's Cathedral

It's architecture still so majestic to this day.

A scale model outside to get your bearings.

Our next stop, was a visit to Dublinia. a museum of Dublin's Viking history.

Who'd have known that Dublin had such a rich Viking history? We're not much in to museums, but this was interesting, particularly because my interest in the Viking way of life.

A skeleton from one of the many Viking burial grounds around Dublin.

An example of their fine linen making skills, using rocks as weights to keep tension on the fabric.

Moss as toilet paper ?

Cathy trying her hand in the kitchen. Anywhere there's food right?

So many genuine artifacts on display.

And more dead people.

It had to happen sooner or later. Cathy found a bloody tower to climb.

Cathy looking for a good place to have lunch 😆

They certainly don't make towers like they usec to.

Lunch time Guiness. First of many.

Another example of the beautiful pubs of Ireland. So much charcter.

This one the most famous and crawling with tourists. The Temple Bar. Great if you don't mind paying extra for the privilege.

Leaving Dublin, we begin our tour of beautiful Ireland, heading north to Northern Ireland. This is the entry into one of many castles we visit in our 4 week tour.

Ardgillan Castle was having some maintenance done but we were still able to take a look see inside.

So many personal items on display from the previous owners over it's long history.

The formal dining room was available for hire to celebrate those special occasions.

This poor fella still looks shocked.

The kitchen was so basic compared to today's standard.

The library was stacked with hundreds of old books.

Out the back of the castle grounds were beautiful gardens and glass house.

So beautifully manicured.

Looking back to the Castle from the front of the estate.

Our next stop was a visit to a Neolithic burial chamber.

Structures such as these are fascinating. How such huge boulders are put into place is beyond me. 

There are quite a few of these around Ireland, but this is one of the better restored.

We came across so many beautiful little villages along our drive, each with their own character.

And tower or castle.

And the pubs. Let's not forget those pubs.

The Fiddler was in the town of Crumlin, Northern Ireland, where we stayed for 4 nights with great hosts, Jim and Cindy.

This is Ivy House, where we stayed in the outskirts of Belfast.

No visit to Belfast is complete without a visit to the Titanic Museum.

This place was excellent in the way the information was presented and with models of the work areas depicting the build of the Titanic.

Fact boards were strategically placed throughout.

This is the actual dry dock where the Titanic was launched in May 1911.

Various pictures hung around the place, adding to the complete story as you walked along.

This is a reconstruction of one of it's "well to do" cabins.

The number of crew was surprising.

This is what the type of cabin the crew would have stayed in.

Nearing the end of the museum, we find actual items saved from that fateful day, including a menu, life vest, a violin played as the Titanic sank and a coat worn by one of her passengers.

713 lives saved while 1512 perished.

Just outside the museum, is one of the Titanic's tenders. The Nomadic.

Worth a visit in it's own right and included in museum entry.

Crew's quarters.

Walking Belfast, we come across the "Big Fish", a 10 metre mosaic salmon.

Canadian Poutine for lunch. More or less a serving of loaded fries, and very tasty.

And another cold Guinness after lunch.

Under UK rule, Northern Ireland has a distinct English tone, along with it's architecture.

Best fit a pub in wherever possible.

Mid afternoon, our BnB host Jimmy, picked us up from the city and took us for a tour around Belfast's troubled areas.

Sad to see so many lives lost over the years of the IRA's dispute with the UK.

Numerous murals to be seen all over.

There are 2 sets of gates in and out of the troubled area. This is one of them and still get locked closed at 10pm each night. The other stays open but makes life easier for the police should there be a need.

This is the second set of gates that remain open at all hours.

Never a truer word said.

At this street corner, a commemorative bonfire is lit each July. Keeping the memory alive of "the troubles"

The Royalists of Northern Ireland never let the republicans forget. They fly the Union Jack all over.

Must be dinner time at the pub.

A new day saw us dedicate our time to Northern Ireland's beautiful Antrim Coastline. This takes in The Giant's Causeway, Fisherman's Rope Bridge and the beautiful coastline of Northern Ireland with all it has to offer.

The walk down to the Causeway was beautiful in itself.

The Causeway is interesting to see but it was the natural beauty of the coast that did it for us.

The Causeway itself is an interesting rock formation caused by volcanic heat and pressure, creating hexagonal shaped columns of basalt rock.

They make great seats too.

In this pic you can see why legend says that it served as a causeway to Scotland.

Lovin life.

Great pic looking back to the mountains of the coast.

One more angle.

Leaving the Causeway, we made our way west to take in the best of Antrim Coast, doubling back past the Causeway and East to Belfast.

Imagine driving along and coming across a beautiful majestic castle like this, overlooking the Atlantic.

We just had to stop for look

.

Although just a shell of it's former self, it was still so beautiful to see. You can appreciate how much work must have gone into a structure like this especially without heavy machinery.

Breath taking views from it's many windows.

Thick timber breams still support its doorways of rock.

Cathy enjoying the view.

Just one of it's many fireplaces.

Moving along the coast, we come across this lovely little harbour.

Many of these can be found right around Ireland, built to protect the boats from the Wild Atlantic storms.

A memorial to those lost at sea.

Next stop. The rope bridge

Once again, the views on the Antrim Coast just never give up. This is just walking to the Rope Bridge from the car park.

Looking down on the bridge.

Ok, our turn.

Cathy just has to climb or cross everything she finds.

Just below is a fisherman's hut. The bridge was originally built by salmon fisherman when they realised that salmon used the island as a place marker for their migration up river.

OK, time to cross back over.

Looks intimidating, but truth be told, the bridge now has two thick steel cables giving it enough strength to drive a car over.

Must be lunchtime.

Carrying on east toward Belfast once again, the coastal road just gets better and better.

Our last day in Northern Ireland was spent visiting St George Markets, Belfast Castle and surrounds, ending with dinner with our hosts, Jim and Cindy.

More of an artisan market with the freshest of fruit and veg, seafood and bakery goods.

Oh yum.

Couldn't help herself.

Next visit, Belfast Castle. Fully restored and available for weddings and the like.

With it's beautifully manicured gardens.

The timberwork inside was incredible.

Time to visit the village of Hillsborough. Oh look, a pub.

Some of these villages are so picturesque.

And then this wonderful Cathedral.

Ok time for lunch. Oh look another pub.

Ending our first week in Ireland, we spent the last night with Jim and Cindy sharing a BBQ and Indonesian dinner with them and a few of their friends. It was a great night that we'll remember for years to come.

Cindy's Balinese background meant great Indonesian food.

Oh and there was beer.

Leaving Northern Ireland, we made our way to the walled city of Derry which is partly in both parts of Ireland.

The wall around Derry is huge.

Canons still stand as they did hundreds of years ago.

You can walk all the way round on the wall and the views are great.

It's good to see the pride in preservation of their historical buildings.

Making our way to the West Coast, we visit this beautifully preserved stone fort.

The view was stunning and that's just from the car park.

Not popular with large tour groups because the road is way too narrow for buses.

The amount of work putting all these rocks together to build a fort no less, must have been back breaking.

Inside, you can still use the steps to climb the wall from the inside as soldiers once did.

Yep, still lovin life.

The view from the fort wall.

Nature always finds a way.

Must be beer o'clock.

The walls of the pubs are always decorated with various memorabilia.

Before reaching Mount Charles, our next base, we stop for another look see at yet another charming old town.

Again with it's own beautiful church.

Our BnB in Mount Charles with spectacular ocean views.

We soon found the local pub for dinner and a beer.

This time, a Smithwicks red ale.

The view from our bedroom window was special.

Based in Mount Charles, we had two full days to explore. Day 1 was a drive to sample the beginning of the Wild Atlantic Way and day 2 to take a cruise to see the highest cliffs in Ireland.

You can see the coast starts to change as we make our way.

Our first indicator of the roads we will follow for the next 2 weeks. The Wild Atlantic Way is truly something else, and we drove it from the northern most end right through to the south coast.

Today's trip was all about Glenveagh National Park and it's castle.

The landscape is simply awesome right through Ireland and we were just getting a taste of it.

The castle stands on a huge acreage which now forms part of the national park and is well worth a look.

There's acres of beautiful gardens to explore.

And a large lake just nearby.

If those walls could talk.

She's found more stairs to climb.

Every turn presented a spectacular view.

More beautiful gardens.

The gates to yet another formal garden.

Oh you know, just the gardener's hut.

On the way back to the BnB we found this harbour with it's own pub, where we enjoyed our first seafood chowder. Yum.

I may have had another beer.

Looking back to the village from the harbour.

The day ended with diner and Irish sing alongs in Donegal.

And another beer.

Still in the Donegal area, we take a day trip through the National park. There are many throughout Ireland and all are so beautiful to see.

So many narrow roads throughout the countryside, just like this and they take some getting used to.

Not tourist in sight. Just how we like it.

The beauty that is Ireland's countryside really does take your breath away.

And then of course, there's the sheep.

Get off the road. Baaaad sheep.

They really do rule the road. They're not scared of cars at all, but if you step out of the car, they run off.

There were times we wished we were on a motorcycle riding through these parts.

Reaching the coastline again, we come across this small fisherman's harbour. It's amazing how much lobster fishing goes on in Ireland. We saw literally thousands of these lobster traps all the way around.

As busy as these two lads were, they were happy to chat.

These traditional thatched roofs are becoming fewer and fewer as they are terribly expensive to replace. Costing from €30,000 ($50,000). They look fantastic though.

The next day, we head to Killybegs harbour to catch a boat to see the Slieve League Cliffs, the tallest in Europe.

Killybegs also harbours the largest and most modern fishing trawlers I've ever seen. The pics don't really capture their enormous size.

This fella, trying his luck in the harbour. Not as silly as it looks because many scavenging fish would make their way in, feeding on the scraps washed out from the trawlers.

Time to board our cruise to the cliffs.

Making our way out of the harbour was scenic enough.

So typical of of Ireland's west coast.

But as we approach the cliffs we spot a historic watch tower. One of several around the coast.

Once again, my pics don't do the cliffs justice, but here they are.

These were enormous and note the change in colour.

Making our way back to port, I just couldn't get enough of Ireland's natural beauty.

And this older traditional fishing boat, still sat proudly among the larger monsters.

That afternoon, Cathy decided that we haven't been walking enough and getting some exercise, so we returned to the BnB, parked the car and headed out for quite a long walk around the local village and it's surrounds.

This old thatched roof home was just down the road a little.

Note the hooks below the roof line. These are typical to the area and are used to tie the roof down so that it doesn't blow off due to the high winds from the Atlantic.

A little further on, we come across this lovely stone church.

All that stone work must've been back breaking.

Yes, this simply someone's front gate but looks like something out of a fairy tale.

Simply perfect.

Remember this is just an afternoon walk in the local area.

First sheep we saw actually behind fences.

We grew to love the traditional homes of  Ireland.

Eventually we make it down to the pier. It was all uphill from here.

So tranquil and picturesque.

Another lovely driveway.

Black berries grow wild all over Ireland and we had a good feed I can tell you.

We asked about the many old homes left to be taken by nature. The story goes that along the west of the country, homes like these are left standing because it makes it easier for families to rebuild on that land, since there was an existing home already present. If not, it was very difficult to get building permission.

Pizza and a Guinness. What a way to end the day.

The next morning, it was time to head further south, taking in the beautiful Gleniff Horseshoe along the way.

This place was one of the  highlights of our trip, and not a soul in sight

Just us, the breeze and the birds.

Absolutely stunning.

The road is the shape of a horseshoe and the area itself is surrounded by dramatic cliffs and mountains.

Ah and more sheep, of course.

On the way out we take a look at the old mill in the area.

This stream once powered the mill's wheel.

What's left of the buildings is slowly being reclaimed by nature.

After some rain, the rivers were putting on quite the show.

The character of Ireland's west coast all bare the signs of past, savage weather.

You can imagine the force required to push all these large rocks up on to the beach.

Perfect place to stop for a beer though.

All of the pubs we saw had their own collection of memorabilia, telling the pubs story over it's history.

Refreshing and scenic. I'm a bloody genius.

We saw several of these towers and all were different in some way. Well worth a look at each and every one of them.

Yes we did take a look inside.

It's own fireplace to keep warm on those harsh winter days.

And looking up you can imagine each level separated by timber flooring, now rotted away or repurposed over it's long history.

And more great weather. Ireland was very kind to us.

Me being a boating and fishing freak, we had to pull in to any harbour or lighthouse we came across.

So many old girls like this left neglected but so nice to see.

So it turns out that the D-Day weather forecast was sent from this lighthouse.

The lighthouse entry.

Yes she made me climb these bloody stairs too. Lucky I love her.

Just nearby, more lobster pots ready for their next mission.

Have I mentioned how much I love boats?

No, really. I love boats.

Nearing our next destination of Newport, it becomes apparent that it's beer o'clock with a serve of oysters to boot.

The next morning, it was time to set out on a day trip to Achill Island. These old church grounds are a must see, all over Ireland, each with there own story and history.

The alter still stands proudly in this one.

We really grew to love the Celtic Cross.

Such beautiful views over the bay.

And another watch tower.

We absolutely loved driving these little rural lanes through the hills and mountains of Achill Island. No tourists to be seen and it felt like we were the only ones there.

More breath taking cliffs.

"A Stolen Ringbuoy - a Stolen Life."

Yes, more sheep. Each property owner had their own distinct marker painted on the sheep's back for owner identification.

Imagine being caught up in stormy Atlantic weather, with only this little hut offering warmth and protection from the elements.

Beautiful Ireland just kept on giving.

As you can see, it wasn't the clearest of days, but the mist just added to the beauty that is the Emerald Isle.

We eventually made it around to the deserted village of Slievemore.

This deserted village is made up of about 100 deserted old homes, once used for a population that moved about according to food availability for their herds.

Quite an eerily silent place but beautiful just the same.

It seems the people have moved on but the sheep remained.

Quite a dreary day but Ireland's pubs always offer some respite.

These traditional old boats are made of a wooden frame then bound in a canvas which is then tarred to make it water proof and sea worthy.

Not many left these days though and we feel lucky to have come across a few on our tour.

Returning to our BnB in Newport, we decide to take a long walk around the village.

To expensive to repair, this poor old girl now lays as a reminder of her former glory.

Loved Ireland's beautiful traditional homes.

Halfway along on our walk, we pass the old bridge of Newport. So many towns and villages in Ireland were based along a river or bay.

More beautiful sweet blackberries. They were everywhere.

Kind of sad to see these beautiful old vessels left abandoned.

Just beside the bridge, stood this railway viaduct.

Looking down to the bridge from the viaduct.

Until our walk of Newport ends with a feed and a beer at the local pub.

The pub didn't serve food but we were made welcome to grab a feed from the Chipper nearby and bring it back to the pub, as all pubs that don't serve food will.

With  a pint of course.

This was our BnB in Newport. The largest bloody caravan we've ever seen with three bedrooms, kitchen, lounge and bathroom.

Leaving Newport, we made our way to Galway, visiting Westport along the way.

Yet another beautiful Irish town.

Ireland's churches were so beautiful in their own right.

Westport is well worth the visit too.

Making our way still further south along the coast to Galway, we take a look at this place.

Apparently a beach but when the tide goes out, it doesn't much around.

Soon, the landscape changes and we climb the hills.

Well bugger me, more sheep.

This cross was erected in honour of the hungry and the poor who walked these roads in 1849 during the famine.

Passing through the Doolough Valley.

Although we did do some touristy things, it was moments like these that made the trip for us. We can't tell you how perfectly serene these out of the way places were.

Who'd have guessed? More Ba Baas.

Loved these roads.

Lovin life ......... still.

Have I mentioned how many sheep are in Ireland's rural areas?

Each with their own markings.

Simply beautiful.

Still on transit to Galway, the coast is so picturesque.

Another beautiful example of Ireland's historical bridges. This one in Leenaun.

The Wild Atlantic Way just keeps on coming in it's perfect beauty.

Another perfect harbour image.

Eventually, we make it to Barna, just outside Galway, and settle in for dinner.

The next day was all about visiting the Aran Islands.

The Aran Islands are steeped in Ireland's history but unfortunately is also a bit of a tourist trap. 

It turns out we should have visited the smallest of the three islands but our day was interesting just the same.

There are number of small buses that you can take on a tour around this island that is sold as a three hour tour, however, the tour is only approximately 45 minutes because you get dropped off to walk to an old fort for two hours which is way too long and an additional cost. In addition to that, we took the larger of the buses which was a mistake because it was too large to stop on the narrow roads, so we felt rushed. The smaller buses seemed to have a much more personal experience.

We still made the most of it though.

I have to say the islands do hang on to their heritage more. It was good to see.

In the day, the locals would have to get their water from this well, all by bucket.

A few local craft shops selling their wares, including Aran Island Knitwear.

This was another option but sinfully expensive.

The trail up to the historic fort.

Once again, the views over the coastline were spectacular.

I cant get over the amount of labour that must've taken place to build these structures at a time of no machinery.

The inside walls of the fort.

This was a cattle yard, but now unused. Lots of dairy in Ireland.

We pay good money for fuchsia in Australia, but it grows wild everywhere in Ireland.

The fuchsia bushes can go on and on along the country roads.

While waiting for our bus to pick us up, we saw a sign to an old church and it was just a short walk away.

Always interesting to see and all a little different.

Just behind the alter was this space where people placed pebbles and coins for good luck.

Moving along in the tour back to our ferry, we took one last stop to the Seven Churches.

Although a little rushed, we got to look around.

With a little time to spare, it was time for a cool drink.

Walking back to the ferry, yet another old church.

Then this park.

Everything is so green and fertile.

The ferries waiting to depart.

That evening, it was time to visit Galway and find somewhere for dinner.

One of many colourful pubs in Galway, The Dew drop Inn.

This attractive mural of the harbour.

The entertainment area grew busier and busier as time got on and several buskers lined the streets.

The Galway Girl, apparently.

Finally finding a pub to our liking, we settle for a dinner of Shephard's Pie and Guinness Stew. The pint of Sonny Molloy's Stout was the best I tasted throughout the trip but only available in Galway.

The next day was a transit day to Quinn, taking in the Cliffs of Moher and other beautiful sights along the way.

We simply couldn't drive past these wonderful old buildings.

And this one being on the water, made it even more spectacular.

Another small fishing harbour just a little further on.

This church is functioning and had lovely grounds surrounding it.

Finally, we arrive at the famous Cliffs of Moher.

These are quite spectacular, however so are many others further south that are free to visit.

Beautiful dairy cows in a neighbouring paddock.

This is where I say that pictures don't do these cliffs justice.

Lovin life again.

Close up of a cow's arse.

Another angle.

Then this tower at the northern end of the walk.

Leaving Moher, we continue our drive south along the Wild Atlantic Way.

The beaches aren't what we're used to back home but beautiful in their own right.

Still further south, another lovely little village.

What's left of Doonbeg Castle

Well what do you know, we found another pub, this time for lunch.

One of the small traditional ones and we got to have a good chat with a couple of locals.

Still further south on our way to Quinn, we come across more spectacular cliffs.

Kilkee cliffs are so spectacular and free to enjoy.

Sadly, also the site where people have taken their own lives.

Yet so majestic.

And just a little further, we come across Loop Head.

And it's lighthouse, of course.

As I've said before, the coastline on the west coast of Ireland just doesn't give up. This pic is taken from the side of the lighthouse.

Just before reaching Quin, we spot another beautiful old relic.

And more Celtic crosses that we grew to love.

The first morning in Quin gave us an opportunity to buy some artisan cheese, like nothing we've tasted before.

On our day trip we got to see this sculpture set in the middle of the river through the village.

Another typically colourful village.

And then on to Bunratty Castle and folk park. The place was crawling with tourists so we just took a look around the outside.

That afternoon, we drove back to our BnB in Quin to take a better look at the Friary and adjoining church, now that light rain had eased.

This was one of the most spectacular landmarks we'd seen on our trip. Not only was it free to enjoy, but just a short walk from our BnB.

Well preserved for it's age and simply stunning.

This room had headstones where possibly resident friars were laid to rest.

This area was actually once enclosed. You can see the large fireplace to the right. 

Just along the path, a short distance away, stood the church.

And again, you can see that more modern graves had been laid there, effectively repurposing the grounds.

Walking back toward the BnB, another beautiful Irish home. It must take some work controlling that ivy though.

All throughout Europe, it is common to find the old bridges decorated with hanging pot plants.

Nearing the end of the day, it must be beer o'clock.

Leaving Quin, it was time to head further south toward Dingle and Kerry. Just when we thought we'd seen the best of what Ireland had to offer, she slaps us in the face with more dramatic landscapes that took our breath away.

The Wild Atlantic Way still guiding us along the best coastline we've ever seen.

Nothing to see here. Just another castle wall.

Just had to stop to see this church and friary.

You'd think all these old relics would become a little repetitious, but no. They're all different and tell their own story.

Once again, repurposed as burial sites for the locals.

A little further down the road, yet another site to behold. This castle was also on the water's edge and we were able to climb up inside and enjoy spectacular views.

More perfect September weather.

Here you can imagine the different layers of wooden flooring. Atleast 3 or 4.

And up we go.

How many sets of feet have these stairs seen?

Views that money can't buy and you won't get to experience on a tourist bus.

Lovin life even more. Ireland changed us. Note the height we're at and the car below.

The coastal beaches are very tidal. One minute they'll like this, and then these bays can appear deep in water.

Ballybunion Beach and another watch tower.

We came across another lovely fishing harbour but this time we got to see genuine traditional Irish boats made of a wooden frame and covered tightly with a canvas then tarred to make them water tight and buoyant. Rare to find in use these days, we're told.

This one has seen better days.

The harbour wall that protects the boats against rough seas.

Another angle.

Just before reaching our destination, we come across this windmill.

Looked out of place.

Once again, at the end of the day, it's time for a meal and a beer.

The next morning, the weather wasn't so inviting and we got a little taste of how wild the west coast of Ireland can be.

It was cold, wet and very windy.

A far cry from the Life Saver's Club back home.

Here we are approaching the Dingle Peninsula which we tour the next day.

Dingle town and it's fishing harbour.

So many colourful buildings full of character. Shame about the weather though.

The Dingle Peninsula is a must see when in Ireland. We devoted a full day to touring around it.

Along the way, we come across these Neolithic beehive shaped huts.

These type of out of the way attractions are always worth stopping for.

There were about four of these that have been excavated, and many more beneath our feet , still underground.

This the inside. It never ceases to amaze me how these structures hold together for so long.

Meanwhile, we continue along the coast road, circumnavigating the Dingle Peninsula.

These narrow roads are a little scary but breath taking at the same time.

Dramatic to say the least. I can only imagine living in this place in battering Atlantic winds.

No idea but it looked good.

This is Slea Head at the southern tip of the peninsula.

Pair of nutcases having the time of their lives.

This road meanders all the way down to the sand where many a car has had to be towed back out.

Still windy but very little rain.

From here it was a very careful drive through Conor Pass, a spectacular mountain pass in the south of the Dingle Peninsula. Words can't describe this part of Ireland.

And this waterfall at the end of the pass.

Not one but two beers required this night, in the lovely village of Killorglin.

The next day was all about the Ring of Kerry.

An old railway tunnel still intact from a disused railway.

And this, just across the road.

A little further on, we come across this railway viaduct.

It's official, we're on the famous Ring of Kerry.

The amount of history in Ireland is astounding. Here we climb the stairs to another stone fort.

And free to enter, with not a tourist bus in sight.

We couldn't get enough of these old structures.

And the views from it's great stone walls. Oh you know, just another castle.

My little mountain goat just has to climb everything.

Can't be sure, but perhaps this inner circle was a last line of defence or perhaps just sleeping quarters?

And another view in another direction.

You know the place is fertile when there's moss growing in the stone.

Approaching the southern end of the peninsula.

Then on to Port Magee.

Love the harbours and the sun's out again.

Beautiful Kerry Cliffs. Now this place was special.

The water is so blue and the cliffs were incredible.

Pure, natural beauty in every direction.

This was the first beach I got to talk to some fisherman who were just enjoying a cup of hot tea.

A haunting reminder of Irelands turbulent past.

Further long the southern coastline of Kerry, we simply had to stop once again, to enjoy yet another spectacular view, just by a church.

Soon after, we took a turn down a tiny lane toward another harbour.

We saw so many boats left high and dry right around the coast.

And then it was on to Kenmare and it's stone circle.

This place had a peaceful feel to it.

Visitors are encouraged to leave a card, with a wish, hanging on the wishing tree.

Then a short walk across to Cromwell's Bridge.

Built by monks about 300 years ago and designed to accommodate the flood levels of the river below.

This lovely home overlooking the bridge.

At the end of the day, it's that time again.

Out third and final day in this area was dedicated to driving the Gap of Dunloe and on to the Black Valley. This day was simply another incredible experience. Wow......just wow.

At the northern entry to the Gap, we find these horse and carriages parked up to take tourists some of the way through. We were advised by our BnB host to get on the Gap well before 9am to avoid any congestion. We soon found out why and we were very grateful for the advice.

The road in, began quite tame but not for long.

As expected, the quiet scenery was beautiful.

The road was one car wide and you had to be very mindful of distant approaching traffic to avoid any problems passing.

Yes, the sheep owned this area too.

Note the narrow road winding up the hill.

Note the narrow road. (if you can call it that)

So beautiful.

Here the road widens to 6 lane freeway. (or so it seemed)

More spectacular scenery kept smacking us in the face.

So many valuable memories for us.

And on to Black Valley.

By this time, the rental was in bad need of a tub.

A quick turn off a small lane to find this little treasure, before continuing on.

Returning on to the road through the valley and reaching the top. Now looking over Black Valley. You can just see the road at centre left.

And to finish our day's drive, we pass through Killarney National Park and on to Ross Castle.

And still loving life.

As with all of Ireland's National Parks, the scenery is second to none.

Just another roadside relic.

Our final stop for the day. Ross Castle.

Steeped in history and on a lake.

These timber boats can take you for a tour around the lake to appreciate the castle from the water.

In all it's majesty.

Within it's walls.

And at day's end.

Along with a share pack of  "Spice Box". Basically loaded fries on steroids.

These public washing machines are all over Ireland and we took advantage of them when needed.

A little walk around town to end the evening and our stay in Killorglin.

And here he is "King Puck".

The place takes on a different look on sunset.

The next morning it was time to carry on east to Cork.

And the coastal scenery just keeps on coming.

This little place had a nice harbour and a great pub to eat at, but it was way too early.

The landscape got even more beautiful as we drove on.

And it was just us and the road.

You simply don't get to see this type of thing on a tourist bus.

Nearing Cork, we come across a major fishing port.

The large and the small.

And smaller.

The beauty of doing a self drive is the freedom to stop whenever and wherever we please.

Eventually we reach the town of Bantry for the night. The BnB in green and our rental out front.

We dump our bags and explore the town.

Our BnB from across the bay.

Eventually we settle for this pub for dinner. The Irish pubs a great fun with a decent meal.

And a beer of course.

After dinner we took a walk to the pier where I got to chat to a fisherman for an hour or so and capture the sunset.

Having only a one night stay in Bantry, it was time to head on to Cork.

Always sights to see along the way.

This stop was another Neolithic stone circle.

Just the walk to it was beautiful.

Once again, not a tourist in sight.

The weather was a little drizzly so we spent some time in the village of Schull.

This anchor believed to be from one of the ships from a french fleet that sank in the area.

Due to the weather, I took the opportunity to get a hair cut by a very attractive Ukrainian refugee by the name of Natalia. Couldn't have planned that if I tried.

And a beer.

A little further on, The Timoleague Friary.

You simply can't just drive past without taking a visit.

So silent you can hear your heart beat.

And so majestic.

This place was huge.

Imagine building this magnificant place without modern equipment.

The best I could do to show the size, but I failed.

It must be dinner time. We stayed in Douglas, just outside Cork. Cathy enjoying a Guinness Pie.

Cork was a little industrial for our liking, but the day trips around were spectacular.

He we were walking around this tower, only to realise it has been renovated and was now somebody's home. Something they must be proud of.

With a view to the bridge.

Today, we visited the stunning village of Cobh. This is St Colman's Cathedral.

One of the grandest we've ever seen anywhere.

Cobh is renowned for it's rows of colouful homes.

We spent a few hours walking around Cobh and it was worth every minute.

It's own lovely harbour.

Part of the town with the Cathedral above.

Nature always finds a way.

Cathy found more stairs to climb.

Titanic made a stop here in Cobh before being put into commission. These signs hanging just outside the museum.

The village of Ballyfoyle.

One of the sleepiest places we came across.

We drove  the entire Wild Atlantic Way from the far north of Ireland, all the way down the west coast, where we left it, then came around the peninsula the opposite direction. Here we officially complete the drive the opposite way. Just to be different.

Lunch beer in Kinsale, before visiting Charles Fort just up the road.

Kinsale is a pretty seaside town, however so many places, including bars and restaurants, were closed.

After lunch. it was on to visit Charles Fort, where Cathy had visited in her younger years.

Like so many walled cities throughout Europe, these forts had huge thick walls surrounding it.

These are bases that once held large water tanks on top. This design helped to keep the water cool.

Watch towers, still stand around it.

In these pictures, you can see evidence of old and new. The fort was reused in the early 1900's in the first Civil War.

Officer's barracks.

They had a nice view from inside.

The area this fort covered was large.

So much to see around every corner.

So much damage was done dto this structure during the Civil War.

The soldiers barracks at the other end.

And it's own little lighthouse.

We loved this trip to Ireland. It was right up our alley.

A view from the end, looking back to the officer's barracks.

The structure to the right, one of it's later additions of the 1900's.

Coastal view from it's enormous walls.

Must be a dinner beer.

The next morning, it was time to head east toward Kilkenny. We just kept coming across more sites like these wherever we went, and all worth a stop and a look.

This old farmhouse stood just across the road.

These damaged statues sitting on a crypt but beautiful just the same.

It's sacred alter at the front.

More damaged stone figures.

A little further on, we take a closer look at this lighthouse.

A very rocky swimming spot to say the least.

Further on, we come across the oldest Christian sites in Ireland.

Ardmore Cathedral and tower.

Built in the 12th century. This place was just something else.

Inside the cathedral.

Several crypts and burial sites covered its floor.

The stations of the cross lined up along it's wall.

These towers are found in many old Christian sites and served as not only a land marker, but also a last line of defence to protect the church's valuables.

This is Ardmore Beach, still on our way to Kilkenny.

Great pic of a full rainbow after a light shower.

Helvick Harbour, south of Waterford.

one of the more traditional fishing harbours of Ireland and we had the pleasure of having a chat to a couple of fisherman. Great experience.

A stork looking for a feed and a memorial to loved ones lost at sea.

More beautiful coast, before we tack inland, getting nearer to the end of our wonderful drive.

Very pebbly Annestown beach, along Ireland's Copper Coast.

Eventually, we arrive in Kilkenney and after unpacking, it was time for a hearty dinner.

And a beer ...... or two with very good live music.

And an evening walk to finish a great day. Kilkenny Castle.

Our day in Kilkenny was a little spoilt by rain but we got a break and took a quick walk while the rain wasn't around.

The River Nore runs through Kilkenny.

One of the original gatehouses of Kilkenny Castle.

We took a quick peak inside but didn't do the tour, as we wanted to get a walk around before the rain returned.

Lovely tree lined path along side the castle.

A walk away, we find St Mary's Cathedral.

Also a sight to behold inside.

Lovely marble statues.

Evening beer in a cosy dry pub.

We finally reach our final transit day, returning to Dublin, through The Wicklow Gap and Glendalough.

A sense of urgency came over us, realising this spectacular trip was coming to an end.

We felt we needed to get the most of what we had left. Following the path of St Kevin through the gap and down to Glendalough, we come across yet another sacred piece of Ireland's history.

We soon find that this stream led right through and down to Glendalough.

By this stage, we learned how big a part, Christianity played right through Ireland.

And yes we were still loving the sheep owning the roads.

In this pic, Glendalough lay down the very bottom of the stream, snaking it's way down into the valley.

Looking the other direction, up stream.

The tourist information centre and kiosk, Glendalough.

Usually, when we tour, we expect things to slow down as we reach the end, however Ireland doesn't allow this to happen. This is what made this holiday so different to any trip we've experienced before.

This monastic village and surrounding walks was simply breath taking and takes hours to see.

With it's own little waterfalls.

And forest paths you read about in fairy tales.

Simply beautiful.

Walking to the lakes, yet another historical old church pops up out of nowhere.

In a hidden spot and so utterly tranquil.

These are experiences tourist busses won't find you and money can't buy. Not another soul in sight. Just the way we like it.

I had to get a few angles to give this place justice.

We reach the upper and lower lakes of the hike.

On our walk back, we find a stone circle, thought to out date the monasterial village

St Kevin's Church.

You can spend a long time just walking amongst the headstones and having a read.

Glendalough also has it's own tower.

The reason you're not seeing tourists is because they were all crawling around earlier while we hiked to the lakes. Tour buses don't allow enough time, so they were all gone and we had the site to ourselves.

A few hours well spent in one of the most beautiful experiences in Ireland.

Continuing on, we take a short break in Wicklow.

Just enough time for a small lunch and a quick stroll around, to break the drive.

Another fishing town.

We still had a couple of hours to burn before going to our BnB, so we had a walk around Dublin Harbour.

It's a long walk around the southern pier but hey it's exercise at the least but with views.

And a walk around a nearby park before heading to the BnB we first stayed at when we flew in to Dublin. It was great to share our stories with our host over a wine and nibblies.

What do you know? Two more pints of the best with dinner.

It was now our final day in beautiful Ireland and we decided to start with a local walk of the local area. This cyprus tree trunk was carved to reflect the fauna of the area. We found it at St Anne's Park and is called the Peace Tree.

It's quite large and the quality of work is outstanding.

St Anne's Park was once owned by the Guinness family and once known as St Annes Estate. It includes playing fields, extensive gardens and walks covering over 100 hectares.

A lovely stream runs through it.

This tower and bridge were built to commemorate the birth of a daughter to the Guinness family.

A children's wishing tree.

You can spend hours in this park. So much to see and free to enter.

A red tower stands at the end of just one of it's numerous gardens.

And other structures like these dotted about the place. Mainly ornamental.

Finally, we head to Howth. A picturesque fishing port nearby. We tried to visit it when we first picked up our rental, but there was absolutely no parking on the day, so we left it for today with great results. Let's start with a huge soft serve known as a "99", because it used to cost that much but over double that now.

Part of it's fishing fleet.

The lighthouse across the harbour. Ireland put on a great day's weather for us on our last day with perfect blue skies. 

Yep, lovin life !

Final lunch beer with a mate.

This shrine to the fisherman who risk their lives every time they set out to earn a living.

And my final pint in this beautiful emerald isle that is Ireland. Cheers you good thing.

This tour was up there with the best. Ireland is a beautiful country with beautiful warm people that are easy to befriend and have a chat to. Although all my pics of beers are a bit tongue in cheek, they actually represent good times chatting with locals and enjoying a warm atmosphere with good food. Would we recommend Ireland as a travel destination? My God yes.